What Is a Ryokan?
A ryokan (旅館) is a traditional Japanese inn that offers far more than just a place to sleep. Staying in a ryokan is a cultural experience — one built around hospitality, ritual bathing, seasonal cuisine, and a slower pace of life. If you've never stayed in one, it can feel both exciting and slightly daunting.
This guide covers everything a first-time ryokan guest needs to know, from arrival etiquette to how the meals work.
Arrival: The First Impressions
When you arrive at a ryokan, you'll typically be greeted at the entrance (genkan) and asked to remove your shoes before stepping onto the wooden floor inside. You'll be given a pair of slippers to wear throughout the common areas of the inn.
Staff will often escort you to your room, serving you a small welcome tea and seasonal sweet (wagashi). This is a moment to sit, breathe, and transition from travel mode to relaxation mode.
Your Room: Understanding the Space
Traditional ryokan rooms are laid out in tatami style — straw-mat flooring, low furniture, and a futon that staff will lay out for you in the evening while you're at dinner. The room typically includes:
- A chabudai (low table) and floor cushions (zabuton)
- A tokonoma — a decorative alcove with seasonal flowers or artwork
- A yukata (lightweight cotton robe) for you to wear during your stay
- A private or shared bathroom (many rooms now have en suite facilities)
Important note: Wear your yukata freely inside the inn. It's entirely appropriate to walk to the baths, have dinner, and relax in public spaces while wearing it.
The Onsen (Hot Spring Bath)
Most ryokan have communal onsen baths, and bathing culture is central to the experience. Here are the key rules:
- Wash thoroughly before entering the bath. Use the shower stations along the wall — soap, rinse completely, then enter the communal bath.
- No swimwear. Baths are used in the nude.
- Keep your small towel out of the bath water. It can rest on your head or be left at the side.
- Tattoos: Many traditional ryokan still restrict guests with visible tattoos from using communal baths. Check the policy when booking if this applies to you.
- Men's and women's baths are separate — look for the noren (fabric dividers) marked 男 (men) and 女 (women).
Meals: Kaiseki Dinner and Japanese Breakfast
Most ryokan rates include dinner and breakfast (known as ippaku nishoku — one night, two meals). Dinner is typically a kaiseki multi-course meal, served either in your room or a private dining area. Dishes are seasonal, beautiful, and often locally sourced.
Breakfast is usually a traditional Japanese set: grilled fish, miso soup, rice, pickles, tamago (egg), and various small side dishes. Even for those who usually eat Western breakfasts, this is worth experiencing.
Meal times are usually fixed — you'll be asked during check-in when you'd like to eat. Don't be late; the kitchen works to a careful schedule.
Checking Out: Settling the Bill
Ryokan checkout is typically calm and unhurried. Settle your bill at the front desk — this usually includes your room rate plus any extras (additional drinks, private bath bookings, etc.). Cash is still the preferred payment method at many traditional ryokan, so come prepared.
How to Find the Right Ryokan
The ryokan experience varies enormously — from simple countryside inns to lavish resorts. When choosing, consider:
- Private vs. shared bathroom: En suite onsen rooms cost more but offer more privacy.
- Location: Mountain and hot spring towns like Hakone, Kinosaki, and Beppu are classic ryokan destinations.
- Meal plan options: Some ryokan now offer room-only rates if you want more flexibility.
A first ryokan stay often becomes one of travellers' most treasured memories from Japan. Go in with an open mind, follow the rhythm of the house, and let the hospitality do its work.